In the previous installment, we discussed the initial steps in the thought process when shoeing a new horse — observation of stance, gait, conformation and any abnormal indicators. After acquiring the information about the horse’s job and any problems it might have, a plan is now in place to successfully shoe this horse. We must now decide what type of shoe is appropriate, any necessary modifications, as well as other extras, such as pads or studs, if desired.

Turnout conditions may alter what you consider an optimal plan. For instance, traction devices needed for rider safety may be dangerous to other horses in turnout. Wide, full-fitting shoes that provide flotation for a dressage horse will likely be lost in deep mud.

A basic plain horseshoe is just a starting point. A “rule of thumb” is that the width of the shoe should be twice the wall thickness. This puts the nail holes in the right place for secure, safe nailing. A “lite” style shoe will only work well on a thinner hoof wall, whereas a wide web shoe might place the nail holes inside the white line. Does the horse need a rolled toe, which may be a better choice for many horses? Is the horse used for speed work? Maybe a rim style is a better choice. When we think this way, we are shoeing horses instead of nailing shoes on feet.

A Repeatable Process

Most farriers shape and modify shoes in pairs. Whether you start with the fronts or hinds may only make a difference if the horse’s behavior prefers either. Assuming the shoes are going to be modified and fit with the use of a forge, there should be a repeatable, logical order of operations for your work. Consistency promotes efficiency.

Farriers have many different methods. Finding one that guides your process easily to completion is the goal. Here is one.

Start by trimming the left front (or hind). Before trimming the right front, select the appropriate shoes for the horse and place them in the forge. Arrange them, toes inward, with the right shoe on the right side, left shoe on the left side. Since you are trimming left to right, you will also begin working the shoe for the left foot first. This produces a rhythm where you do not have to think about which side of the horse you are fitting. Whether you do left to right or the opposite does not matter as long as you are consistent.

Starting with the left shoe, fit that front third circumference and forge any toe modification needed or draw a toe clip. Do the same with the right shoe as the left is back in the forge, reheating. Next, if a side or quarter clip is needed, forge that on the inside branch, as you will also fit that side. Do the same for the right shoe.

As the left shoe has reheated, do whatever is needed to fit or modify that side and flatten the shoe. Check the fit on the horse at this point. Complete the cycle on the right front shoe, and check the fit. If you need another heat to finish fitting either shoe, keep going. Otherwise, make sure the shoes are flat. Many farriers back punch the nail holes on the foot side to provide a better pitch at this point. That’s recommended.

Checking how the shoes fit while they are hot can be helpful in obtaining the proper fit for several reasons. With a shoe that’s just losing its incandescent heat, a 3-second even touch to the trimmed hoof accomplishes several things. Clips will be seated onto the hoof wall properly, any high spots on the hoof will show scorch marks, and there will be burn marks transferred to the shoe that indicate whether the fit past the quarters is uniform, too tight or too full.

A right-handed person should start nailing at the first or second nail hole on the right side of the shoe. The nail needs to be pitched with the tip pointing slightly toward the toe. The hammer handle should be lined up with the shoe branch. When the horse is reshod, the old nail holes will be right in between the new nails. Steve Kraus

Cold shaping and fitting have none of those advantages. However, you can easily feel the fit when you hold the shoe accurately where you intend to nail it. Lighter shoes may not need heating for shaping if modifications are not required. It’s best to dress the foot to a uniform hoof wall thickness to accurately fit either hot or cold. There should be very little, if any, hoof wall to dress off after nailing.

If any heel modifications are needed for hind shoes, like extended heels or widening the lateral branch, that would be the last modification to do, as well as any other hammer finishing like “boxing.” Final finishing can either be hot rasping or using a grinder to add some beveling beyond the quarters, depending on the level of expansion desired in the fit.

If a traction device is necessary, now is the time to add it. Whether drilling holes for studs or welding on carbide particles, that should be done after all fitting is accomplished. Next, if any pads are desired, that’s the last item to fit and attach to the shoe. When applying thicker pads, some farriers pre-drill holes through the pads for more accurate nailing.

Nailing on Shoes

Having a logical order of operations will provide efficiency to whichever setup is needed for any horse. Now, the shoes are ready for nailing.

If you have selected the appropriate section width of the shoes for a horse’s hoof wall thickness and shaped them accurately, nailing them on is the simplest part of the process. If shoes with clips are used and they have been accurately fitted, the positioning of the shoe is predetermined. Without clips, there needs to be a process that ensures the shoe is secured where it’s intended.

If the first nail driven is aligned properly with the hoof wall and the nail shaft doesn’t touch any part of the nail hole, it will not shift the shoe. Any contact with the inside of the nail hole will push the shoe in that direction.

A right-handed person should start the first or second nail hole on the right side of the shoe. The nail needs to be pitched with the tip pointing slightly toward the toe rather than toward the rear. Hammer handle alignment should be with the handle lined up with the shoe branch. Next, select a nail hole on the opposite side and position the nail the same way. When driving nails on the opposite side, the hammer handle should be at 90 degrees to that shoe branch. If all nails are aimed slightly forward toward the toe, the shoe will not move. An added bonus is that when the horse is reshod, the old nail holes will be right in between the new nails.

Whether you choose to clinch and finish the pair that you just nailed on or move on to the second pair and finish all four feet later is optional. When working with a helper, that person could do the finishing work while the second pair of shoes is being shaped.

Having a process that flows like a movie script adds efficiency and reduces stress. Instead of rushing to finish a horse, you’ll walk through the job. Don’t forget to watch the horse walk/jog when you are finished. The ligaments and tendons will adjust after several steps. If your work was done thoughtfully, a nicer moving horse is always rewarding to see.