Using Sliding Plates
The April 2012 issue of AFJ features a story on sliding plates. This story was specifically suggested by farriers looking to shoe reining horses.
Please post your comments below.
On reined cow horses who also have to do fence work and cutting I have used a tapered jar caulk. The last inch or so af a rasp tang is ideal to brave on.
I think the question was what to do with the horses doing more than 1 disipline I had a situation where the client did reining as well as driving her horse I applied a moderate sliding plate and drilled and tapped for small studs She did well in both disiplines J J
My daughter does high school equestrian. Her horse has been thru professional reining training but hasn't been used on that high of a level in about 6 years. We are wondering if there is another option to slide plates. She will be completeing in a reining class but will also do western pleasure and speed events. Of course slide plates make speed events difficult. We didn't know if there is a shoe that can give a small slide or if we should just give up the slide in the reining class so he can still do well in the other classes.
For over a decade I've lived and shod in reining horse country. Pilot Point Tx. What I have found is that if you try to shoe all reining horses with the same idea in mind you will have big problems. All the horses need to be evaluated prior to shoeing. Based on conformation, training, age and movement should all be taken into consideration before deciding what size or style of reining plate you put on.
I roll the toe, then very slightly rocker the toe, fit them to the foot, and grind the nail heads down. I fit them with length, but not too much. And I like the back half of the shoe to have "flow" and not excessively turning in one branch. I think that creates drag. Dirt needs to be able to escape out the back.
i like my heels to extend to the bulbs of the horses heels. it also seems to help to roll the toe and turn the plates paralell to the horses backbone
Fit the slider to the foot not to the distortion. Start with a narrower web and work your way up in width. Don't get in a hurry to put a wider web super slider on a horse that's not ready for it or a foot that isn't either.
I put sliding plates on reiners (duh...) and usually put rockers on them to keep them from digging in. If I have a new reining horse, I'll take a wide web shoe like a St.Croix Xtra and use that until they have a bit more control on that back end. There are lots of tricksd to keep them from splaying out...too many to list here. I also have some prototype copper-alloy sliders (to combat thrush) that I'm looking for someone to test. Contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org if interested.
I look at sliding plates as any other shoe. I use the lightest one that gets the job done. Because of that I tend to make my plates wide at the toe and tapering to the ends. This lets a lighter shoe be very effective. I like to use 1/4" x 1" or 1 1/4" and tapering to about 3/4" at the heel. As a rule of thumb I like to drop a line from the back of the heel straight down to the end of the shoe.
I have both reining horse and working ranch horse clients that I put sliders on for. There are a lot of opinions as to how long the trailers should be or how full to fit etc.. I find that the most important thing is to make sure that the sliders follow the conformation of the leg. If you are right down the middle you will get 11's a lot more often. Sometimes you will have to do shoe modifications anyway but a good fit will go a long way in the right direction.
Also of course once finished applying the shoe, I grind the nail heads off.
Yes I do reining horses. I hammer roll the toes to provide a better break over, box the devil out of them as well as safeing the inside branches. Find most of the reiners I've done do better with muled heels as well.