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More Shoers Share Their Thoughts On Signposts In The Hoof
In the July/August issue, we shared more responses we received to an e-mail we sent out asking our readers to let us know what landmarks they use to guide their trimming.
Due to space limitations in the magazine, we couldn't use all of the responses we received and had to edit some of the ones we did use. We like to share the longer versions here, as well as many of those we didn't have space for in the magazine.
I tend to use a combination of guidelines. I use the frog as an indicator as where to trim the heels and toe. So I first either need to be sure I have a trimmed frog and /or in cases where the horny (old, damp, non-living) frog is not ready to slough off and protection is needed for type of use, I need to acquire an understanding of the size and placement the frog would be when it was trimmed.
Without going into the anatomy in detail, a properly trimmed frog gives an indicator of coffin bone placement. The frog also provides guidelines as to how the heels need to be trimmed. Often, by trimming the bottom of the hoof to these indicators, I end up with a proper angle for that horse, which can be checked with other references when the horse is standing, such as, the slope of the shoulder.
I will also, use the coronary band as an indicator of misplaced pressure. And I use the landing of the foot to judge the final touch ups on a trim, mainly on crooked leg/hoof cases.
I usually find that any sand cracks (cracks originating from the coronary band), especially at the back of the hoof, indicate imbalance between the front of the hoof and the back.
—Lee McKinney
Gardnerville, Nev.
I use the protocol established as standard practice by the Equine Lameness Prevention Organization, This protocol is consistent on every foot type and shape. The method has been verified by the scientific community and has stood the test of time.
—David Nichols
East Sussex, England
I have always been a huge advocate of not leaving a horse with flares or dishes when I have completed a trim. I have seen too many of these distortions turn into cracks, chips, toe separation, etc.
I will bring the foot forward and do the best I can to shape the distal outside wall similar to the shape at the coronary band, assuming there are no distortions there. In doing this flares, dishes, etc., are removed as much as possible without thinning the wall too much.
If a flare is really nasty and I cannot get the desired plane through rasping the outside wall, I find that actually trimming the flare right off with the nippers — causing that area of the hoof to float above the ground — allows the wall to grow down straight. Within a couple of trims, the distortion is gone.
As with most farriers, I assume the trim will balance the foot medial-laterally as well as anterior-posteriorly. In doing so, I insure as much as possible that the bottom of the foot is symmetrical using Duckett's bridge as a reference point.
—Patrick Ards
Fairview, Alberta
Since I am a horseshoer, not just a foot shoer, I have a little different approach than some farriers. The first thing I look for is a horse's overall demeanor. I believe that a horse's attitude and performance is directly related to pain. If nothing seems out of the normal for that particular horse, I proceed as usual.
I don't spend much time watching a horse move round in a circle at a trot. I will watch him as he's coming toward me. I usually rub his eyes, walk around the horse and pause at the tail and sight down the spine for irregularities. I pick up the off side foot and clean it out and then return to the near side foot and clean it out.
When I am walking around the horse, I lay my hand on his back and apply a small amount of pressure. If he flinches or gives severely under the pressure, then I know he has a sore back. I know this will affect his gait, shoe wear and performance.
When a horse walks very slowly toward or away from me, I can see the subtle irregularities easier at the walk. The trot only exaggerates the problem. I can see it in slow motion and makes it harder to see where it's originating. If I see a definite problem, I videotape the horse and put it on the screen, frame by frame. The problem and the key to the solution usually become very obvious. When vet, owner and farrier can all see, all usually agree.
On a normal horse I notice the obvious conformational deviations. I also look for unusual hair flow patterns.
If the muscles under the hair are having a problem or are under tension, then the hair flow pattern will change too. I usually investigate for areas of tension before I proceed with determining what and how to trim. I take a quick look at the front leg with my eye lined up over the front of the scapula and sight down the front of the leg down to the foot to see how the leg is put on the horse in relation to his body.
With the foot raised, I look to see which part of the foot is taking most of the weight. I divide the foot into four parts; medial toe, lateral toe, medial heel and lateral heel. Reuel Darling taught me that the feet of a horse are like legs on a chair. Usually two legs are correct and one or the other is wrong or has a problem.
What's right is right, so I don't mess with what's right. I try to find what wrong and eliminate it. If all the wrongs are gone, then what's left has to be right.
Once I determine which side is bearing more weight, I have determined that I must trim more off the other areas in order to get the foot level. I then check the other indicators to back up my decision.
I look to see which half of the foot is larger. The smaller half usually takes the weight. One side of the foot is usually straighter. The straighter side usually takes more weight. I check for the wider commissure. It usually takes the weight. One heel will be more toward the toe. This heel usually takes more weight. One heel will be higher than the other. The lower or more worn off heel is usually taking the weight. The apex of the frog usually points away from the weight. I also look for a deeper commissure. The shallower one usually is taking more weight.
Most times, the indicators vary from side to side. So I go with the majority. It's usually 2 or 3 say the weight is on one side and 4 or 5 say it's on the other.
I look at the shoe to determine the wear pattern. Then I check the horse from the front to see if it matches. This determines where I put my breakover. I then stand behind the horse and look at the feet from the back. This tells me where to locate the heels of the shoe for support, expansion and hang back.
Once I trim the foot and level it, I check the thickness of the wall. I look for the widest quarter and I use that measurement as my gauge for the rest of the wall. I take my rasp and round the edge of the wall until it's a uniform thickness. Once this is established, I pull the foot forward and put it on a stand. I match the hairline to the perimeter of the rasped wall to eliminate any and all flares. If a flare is less than half the height of the wall and the wall buckles inward, I know that side is taking the weight. If the flare is more that half the height of the wall, the flared side is not taking the weight. I usually remove the whole flare.
I don't usually measure length and angle of the front feet. They are attached to the body by muscle only and can be different and in my mind, that OK as long as the horse is performing comfortably. I will measure the hind feet if they look off. The eye can see within 2 degrees and that's pretty close to right. I normally try to shoe the hind feet first. A socket attaches them and once that is level it makes it easier to level the front feet. If you do the fronts first and the hinds are off, and you level them, then it will usually throw the fronts off somewhat.
I don't remove much frog and hardly any sole. I believe there are 3 types of sole: Live sole, which we hope we never trim; dead sole, that can be removed sparingly; and then there is callous sole. This is the dark yellowish and very hard sole. I believe Mother Nature put it there to protect something, that's why it's so hard. I never trim it off.
—Mike Chisham
Petaluma, Calif.
